Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Treat Your Tresses

The 101 on conditioning, treating and restoring your hair.

** PLUS Product Reviews on home haircare treatments **

YOUR PRIMARY HAIR NEEDS
Your hair needs both protein and moisture. Protein gives form and strength to the hair whilst moisture maintains its softness and flexibility, and protects the hair from split ends.

(1) CONDITIONER
Ordinary conditioner, also called surface conditioner, does not penetrate the hair shaft and therefore has no long-term effect on the hair. It is used for softening, de-tangling and adding lustre to the hair. Conditioner is also used for light nourishing and moisturising much like a skin moisturiser.

Colour conditioners and perm conditioners are specially formulated to condition the hair after the chemical process and should always be used as recommended by the manufacturer of the chemical product as the hair needs special care in these circumstances.

LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER
Leave-in conditioners are good for fine and frizzy hair as a little should not weight down the hair but will allow the hair to dry with it's natural volume or bounce and avoid the limp, lifelessness of a conditioner that is rinsed out.

Leave-in conditioners and serums (containing silicones) are also an effective aid for taming frizzy hair as well as sealing and protecting the hair from split ends.

Leave-ins are also great for little girls as their hair is often prone to tangling - an unnecessary stress for both mother and daughter - and a leave-in provides a de-tangling effect until her next wash.

CO-WASHING
The method of co-washing is followed by women with curly, wavy and frizz-prone hair. Instead of using shampoo to wash their hair they use conditioner. This method is actually more commonly known as the no poo method but co-washing sounds more polite to me, thanks!

The reason for co-washing is based on the premise that shampoo is like detergent on curly hair and strips the hair and scalp of all moisture leaving it dry, frizzy and brittle, whereas conditioner is able to cleanse the hair and scalp whilst leaving it moisturised.

If you are interested in implementing the no poo method effectively you would need to massage and rub your conditioner into the scalp as you would with shampoo and then you would use sweeping motions to gently "pull" (stroke) your conditioner throughout the hair for maximum benefit. With the no poo method you will feel a type of cleanliness that is different from the squeaky clean (and often dry and tight) feeling from shampoo so it takes some getting used to.

For more information Google "no poo movement" or "co-washing" and click here to see the visual benefits of co-washed hair for curls. One last word of advice on co-washing; only do it if you intend to leave your hair to dry naturally wavy/curly. If you intend to style your hair with heat (blow dry or straighten), rather make sure to wash the oils out of your hair with shampoo, or you may end up unintentionally frying your hair - sizzle sizzle, yum yum, with bacon on the side :)

MAYBE NOT YOUR CUP OF TEA
Some people feel that conditioner makes their hair feel greasy more quickly. If your hair isn't dry or curly then you may find that you can get away without using conditioner if it has no benefit for you.

For those who really need the benefit of conditioner for their hair, then make sure to avoid the scalp and just focus the conditioner on the ends of the hair, followed by a thorough rinse.

Those with extremely fine, limp, lifeless or aging hair lacking volume may also consider avoiding conditioner altogether because it is contrary to your styling needs.

(2) TREATMENTS
Hair treatments are also known as penetrating conditioners as they contain many of the same ingredients as ordinary conditioners but are able to penetrate the hair shaft. It is a good idea to use a treatment once a week, however some treatments can even be used as frequently as you wash your hair (if desired). A treatment can therefore replace your conditioner if your hair desperately needs intense care.

INGREDIENTS TO LOOK FOR

Aloe - the Aloe leaf has wonderful healing properties for a healthy scalp and acts as an effective hair conditioner that helps prevent hair damage naturally.

Silicones - Dimethicone, Dimethiconal and Cyclomethicone (etc) provides heat protection and sun protection, seals the hair shaft and adds shine, seals split ends, prevents split ends and guards against frizzy hair. On the down side, silicones coat the hair and can cause build-up and dullness so be sure to cleanse well. And also remember they can make your hair look greasy if used excessively.

Vitamin E (Tophocerol) and Panthenol (Vitamin B) - are both thought to provide some benefit when applied topically.

Hydrolyzed wheat protein and Soy protein - have been formulated to penetrate the hair shaft and help support the hair structure. Too much protein can however, lead to dry hair and breakage, if it is not also balanced with extra moisturisers. These proteins are not natural in the hair so they do not necessarily make a difference to the quality of one's hair fibre.

Keratin and Collagen - are the natural proteins of the hair. Keratin is obviously the main one for the hair structure and provides strength, whereas Collagen provides flexibility and youthfulness to the hair. Collagen production decreases with age, so the older you are the more likely your hair is to become brittle and dull. Keratin and Collagen use have no down-side (as far as I know). They are natural and perfect for your hair.

All hair types should avoid hair conditioners containing alcohol as it dries the hair out and may even cause hair loss. 

SCALP MASSAGE AND OILS
Oils fall between conditioner and treatments as they do not penetrate the hair shaft but they do improve the hair and scalp environment and therefore aid hair health and growth.

Essential Oils Several drops of one of these essential oils - Rosemary, Lavender, Tea Trea, Mint, Lemongrass or Camomile - can provide aromatherapy health benefits for your scalp and hair.

Massage/Carrier/Base Oils Almond Oil, Neem Oil, Castor Oil, Jojoba Oil and Olive Oil are among the many oils used for scalp massage. Scalp massage stimulates the blood flow to the hair and therefore stimulates healthy hair growth. Oils are also anti-bacterial and are able to treat the scalp.


Hot Oils are essentially glamorous conditioners and provide much of the same benefits as conditioner.


SCIENCE ON THE SIDE
Acidity The hair is most healthiest when treated with a product with a low ph, between 2.5 and 5.5. It is unfortunate that most hair products do not communicate this information but if they did it would be a useful tool to compare different products

Ions Negative ions are used to restore lustre to damaged hair whilst positive ions represent damage to the hair shaft. Ionic technology is used in some hair straighteners, dryers and treatments, particularly Bio Ionic, CHI and sometimes by L'Oreal.

(3) HAIR RESTORATION AND REPAIR
The following treatments are known to last longer for restoring the hair fibre to a healthy texture and shine. For more information about each, you can follow the links to educate yourself. These treatments can be very expensive so I would recommend that you research them before parting with your money and submitting your hair to the experience.

TANAGRA
http://www.tanagra.co.za/
http://www.nanokeratin.com/
http://www.handbag.com/hair/Haircare-advice-on-Tanagra--hair-repair/v1


BIOLUSTRE
http://news.biolustre.com/
http://www.biolustrepro.com/

BRAZILIAN KERATIN TREATMENT:
http://www.straightenmyhair.com/How-Does-work.php

http://www.stylelist.com/2010/04/27/brazilian-keratin-hair-treatment/
http://www.essence.com/hair/expert_advice_1/brazilian_keratin_treatment.php

** REVIEWS ** Products to treat your hair at home **

1 - AIM On One Condition is a "hydraplenishing" conditioner which absorbs thoroughly into the hair and can be used daily. It made my hair feel restored and rehydrated and I didn't find it greasy. It contains nourishing Aloe leaf juice and left my hair feeling beautifully smooth, tangle-free and healthier-looking, especially when it was feeling particularly dry and damaged due to highlighting and straightening. This product felt more like a treatment than a conditioner and has the added benefit of smelling very fresh and attractive.

2 - Ladine Hair Repair Treatment (pH 4) provides instant relief to damaged and exhausted hair. It made my hair feel soft and luxurious and had a lasting effect. Ladine has been specifically formulated for African/ethnic hair but this particular product is suitable for all curly hair types, frizzy hair, dry hair, chemically-treated hair and damaged hair.

3 - Another winner is Seri Hydrating Hair Mask. There are two types - one is for dry, damaged hair and the other is for colour-treated hair. Both have very pleasant fragrances and contain Collagen which made my hair feel (and smell) fabulous. This mask can be used instead of conditioner or left on for a few minutes with a hot-towel treatment or even used again after rinsing (and patting the hair dry) as a leave-in treatment for creating soft, well-defined curls.

4 - L'Oreal Age Densiforce Masque is infused with Omega 6 to restore a youthful appearance to the hair. It is originally intended for aging hair but hell I probably love it more than the grannies do! It made my hair feel absolutely amazing with the added benefit of a lovely feminine fragrance and the joy of a beautiful pearlescent shimmer. It reminds me of body creams that have a pearly glow to them and it makes me wonder why all other hair brands haven't put this into their hair products too because it's just such an absolutely cool feeling to have shimmery hair.

7 comments:

  1. Thanks, CAtherine. I am going to give the L'Oreal Age Densiforce a try. Sounds great!
    CB

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  2. Wow! I've never heard of washing your hair before with conditioner but I'm def going to try it. I have a natural millet and yoghurt conditioner at the moment. Will try with that. Forget the brand.

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  3. Hi CB, it's a pleasure. thanks for the comment. I would love to hear about your experience with L'Oreal Age Densiforce when you try it.

    Hey Ash, yes, it's quite interesting. I would love to hear how your experience of co-washing. I tried it for a month last year and it worked just great. It took about 2 weeks to get used to it.
    Is that conditioner from Naturalemente? That stuff is really good. What do you think?

    ReplyDelete
  4. hello my friend! warm greeting ^^!
    your blog looks nice 0_0

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    ReplyDelete
  5. Hi again, Catherine
    I went on a search fro the L'Oreal Age Densifirce Masque, but could not find it. Please advise....
    Thanks CB

    ReplyDelete
  6. Hi CB, Sorry about that. All I can say is they have it at Regis and I think a lot of salons sell L'Oreal if you look around.
    Good luck :)

    ReplyDelete