The Hair Conversation

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Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Heads Up on Great Haircare

Here follows my (Catherine's) personal response to an online article entitled "Heads up on great haircare"

Heads Up says: Walking into a hair salon or supermarket can be intimidating when it comes to selecting the correct products.
There are five major products that you will need in your everyday routine and everything else thereafter can be considered an extra. You might think a commercial advertising the latest shampoos and conditioners are the right way to go, but here's a heads-up on what you really need and why.

Catherine says: So essentially I believe this article would be better entitled "Five Hair Products Recommended by an Anonymous Writer" because that's really what it ends up being. The article's writer is not mentioned but seemingly writes as if you should just take their word for it... Okay? (No, not really. Who are you?)

Shampoo

Heads Up says: This is the most important part of your hair styling routine. 

Catherine says: I'm not so sure shampoo is "the most important part of your hair styling routine". I'd prefer to say it is important for grooming or personal hygiene reasons, but in terms of hair styling, it is simply a pre-requisite.
(What is important for hair styling then? Well, you either need to develop mad skills in hair styling, regularly visit a fab hairstylist or come to terms with a low-maintenance look.)

Heads Up says: Shampoos act as the building block in the routine by removing build-up, cleansing the hair, opening the cuticles to allow the conditioners and treatments to go into the hair shaft and also by providing much needed nutrients to damaged or brittle hair.

Catherine: I'm sorry to say but your hair is not like grass. You can't add nutrients to it like fertiliser to help it get healthier :( 
(If you need to manage hair that's damaged the key is to learn your lesson and avoid those things that damage hair. After which you need to be patient and may need to use either gentler products on your hair or else, counter-intuitively, use stronger products in order to achieve the best results. What you end up using would best be personally recommended by a professional and not an anonymous writer, because one size does not fit all)

Heads Up says: Most people think 2-in-1 shampoos do the trick, but the truth is it's a waste of time. You can't put a body wash and a body lotion on at the same time and expect a great result.
The body wash will always be more over powering, but it won't be 100 percent as effective. Same goes for shampoo and conditioner. So, select products according to what your hair needs:
  • Dry, brittle hair does not need a shampoo that deep cleanses. Rather use a mild product with extra conditioning.
  • Fine hair may need a volumising shampoo, but regular or mild shampoo meant for fine hair is the correct type. Check the bottles or ask a professional.
  • Thicker, course hair may need a cleansing shampoo once a week especially if it's long and styled with product. Remember to incorporate a deep cleansing product once a week to remove build-up. 
Catherine says: I'm sorry, but yet again who is this person who can speak for all haircare products everywhere? You may not use a body wash and a body lotion at the same time but if you have dry skin, surely you would prefer to use a creamier, less drying and more moisturising cleanser? You could therefore say that such a cleanser would help to maintain the condition of your skin whilst cleansing and so can be said to have conditioning properties, hence 2-in-1.

(For your best haircare recommendations, consider who is advising you and what their priorities are. Unfortunately many people think that giving haircare advice is easy when in fact it requires a lot of information in order to give appropriate advice. This requires your time, patience and good communication with a professional. Don't be that silly person who considers an expert as a person that you "call at the last minute to share in the blame")

Conditioners

Heads Up says: This is very important no matter what type of hair you have. The main reason we use conditioners is to soften the hair, calm down the cuticle and to nourish and detangle hair.
It also provides for a great deal of your hair's nutritional needs, though most women end up skipping this step to try and maintain their hair's volume. Conditioners are mostly meant for your mid-lengths and ends and should be left on for at least one to three minutes.
This cannot be used as a treatment, although a treatment can be used as a conditioner in some cases. By avoiding the use of a conditioner you leave you hair vulnerable and open to damage when being dried or combed after washing.

Catherine says: This is mostly true. Conditioners are not for everyone though. The general rule is that the longer your hair, the more you need.

Treatment

Heads Up says: This is the final "must" in your hair's cleansing routine. It's the product that enhances your hair's health and encourages it to hold on to the nutrients you've just supplied it with.
It encourages shine, strength and manageability as well as growth if applied correctly and used regularly. This should ideally be used once a week and should be left on for five minutes.

Catherine says: Not everyone has to use a treatment so I'm not sure about claiming it's a "must".
(Don't be hoodwinked by "snake oil treatments" that claim to fix your hair. The truth is that a hair treatment is there to add extra moisture to dry, damaged and worn out hair. It's like a super-conditioner. It may also provide extra protection against damage and if it contains essential oils it may legitimately promote healthy hair growth.)

Heat protector

Heads Up says: Whether you heat style your hair or leave it to dry naturally, you still need a heat protecting product to guard your hair against all elements including mechanical and environmental damage.
It doesn't matter if it's in a spray or cream form as long as it contains little to no alcohol, specifies it's a heat protecting product and is oil and silicone free.
Oils heat up and melt onto the hair and silicones leave a residue and build up that can be damaging to the hair if not cleansed off properly. Your heat protectant should never be in the form of a mousse as this usually contains alcohol.
Stick to a light simple product and never substitute conditioners for leave in sprays – it is not the same thing. It should be applied after your conditioner is rinsed out and can be left in during styling.

Catherine says: Honestly where do I start? I'd be more concerned about getting bubblegum stuck in my hair than silicone. It's really not that bad.
In my opinion, whether you purchase and use a heat protection product or not is up to you, and not "Anonymous Heads Up Writer". Considering if your hair is delicate and easily damaged, or if you subject it to damaging conditions, you can analyse what kind of heat protection you would require.
(These days modern technology drastically reduces the need for heat protection products. If Anonymous had kept up to date with their homework, you'd know all about that already)

After care

Heads Up says: [Leave-in conditioners] are also known as styling aids. They can be silicone based, anti-frizz spray, creams, balms etc. The main purpose of this is to tame any fly-a-ways, complete the rest of your style and to maintain a healthy glow on your hair.
Never apply this to wet hair because it's not a heat protectant. If it's meant for after care, then use it just for that.
Silicones are meant to be applied to mid-lengths and ends, hair sprays should be used at least 15-20cm away from the head and balms and gels should be heated in your hands before applying it to your hair.
Once you've applied this, try not to apply heat after. It just burns your cuticles and creates damage.

Catherine says: This is mostly okay, but yet again the writer goes into one-size-fits-all recommendations... I will rather say do not stress, you may in fact apply leave-in conditioner to damp hair, if that gives you a better styling result then do so by all means. A leave-in conditioner can be a great help in taming curly/frizzy hair and if you can get in on before the frizz finds you then all the better I'd say!
With regards to burning your hair.... You can smell if your hair is burnt. No smell, no burn. 
(The only time I've ever smelt hair burning while styling is when it gets caught in the motor of a hair dryer so please don't let fear-mongers freak you out about burning your hair. It is rare, if not impossible.)

Copyright 2012
All rights reserved by The Hair Conversation Blog

My last words: Please do your hair a favour and learn what the best way to look after your own personal hair type and chosen style is and don't pay attention to "anonymous experts" who have no vested interest in you except to possibly sell you something.
Posted by Katrein at 3:58 PM 2 comments:
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Labels: chemically-treated hair, conditioner, curly hair, damaged hair, frizzy hair, hairstyling, healthy hair, oil treatment, shampoo

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

Pulling out gray hairs?

Some people have said that if you pull out a gray hair, more gray hairs will grow in it’s place...

In other words, they are trying to dissuade you from doing it by saying you are only going to make the problem much, much worse.

The truth is, that eventually, more gray hair is inevitable but in the meantime you are pulling your hair out prematurely which may or may not result in immediate problems but with time, can cause other problems.

What’s happening is that the follicle, a little cove in your skin where the root or bulb of the hair grows from, matures to the point where melanin (pigment/colour) is no longer produced by the melanocytes (cells which produce pigment/colour). The follicle is part of your scalp and goes through a pattern of growth, cessation of growth and then a resting phase which allows the hair to fall out, followed by a phase of growth again (Hopefully! Unless it gives up the ghost).
http://upload.wikimedia.org/

If you pull the hair out in the growth phase of the follicle, then a new hair will begin to grow out again but it won’t grow as long as it would have as it is closer to it’s non-growth/fall out phase. If you damage the follicle when pulling out the hair, it may cause the hair to grow back differently or even not to grow back at all, leaving you with permanent hair loss.

When two to three hairs do grow from the same follicle, this is actually not the norm, but it may be provoked by hormones, genetics and stress (which causes an imbalance in the hormones). This is known to occur with body hair but I’m unsure how true it is of the hair on your head as they are different types of hair.

So essentially, it is unlikely that more than one gray hair will grow where you have pulled a single hair out, but most likely a gray hair will begin to grow again in that same spot. You may however unwittingly damage the follicle permanently and cause hair loss or cause a mutation in how the hair is formed.

Pulling out hairs is also a sign of stress and anxiety which are linked to hair loss, so my recommendation would be to deal with the underlying thoughts and feelings that you have instead of potentially causing more problems and stress with a ‘solution’ that isn’t really a solution at all!
Posted by Katrein at 5:00 PM No comments:
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Labels: alopecia / hair loss, gray hair, hair growth, scalp

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

All Pretty & Bright

littlekittycut.tumblr.com
littlekittycut.tumblr.com
Many of the ladies I know would probably be horrified by the idea of tinting their hair a crazy bright colour like pink, orange, electric blue or neon green, but just look at these pictures... really.... And tell me you're not even a little bit tempted by these pics! :D















littlekittycut.tumblr.com
littlekittycut.tumblr.com





http://fashionisabitch.wordpress.com/2012/

littlekittycut.tumblr.com
littlekittycut.tumblr.com
http://www.glamour.com/beauty/











http://littlekittycut.tumblr.com/

http://littlekittycut.tumblr.com/

http://littlekittycut.tumblr.com/
I would call this colour Magenta - What would you call it?
http://littlekittycut.tumblr.com/

http://littlekittycut.tumblr.com/
http://littlekittycut.tumblr.com/

http://www.glamour.com/beauty/
http://www.glamour.com/beauty/
Cherry Red!!! *Drool*
http://littlekittycut.tumblr.com/
 Manic Panic
To get colours like this, you can get the original Manic Panic colours that the celebs use from AnonaMiss Beauty Emporium in Cape Town.
Posted by Katrein at 12:53 PM No comments:
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Labels: colour-treated hair, hair trends, red hair, South Africa

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

How to overcome "The Frizzies"

It's pretty common that my clients tell me they have dry hair, but I've noticed their real concerns with dry hair are frizziness, unmanageable curls, dull hair, breakage and split ends, and not necessarily the dry hair itself.

If you want a long-term solution to these problems you need to address the dry hair which means there's good news and bad news.... you can do something about the problem but it also means it's up to you to actually take responsibility and have patience to see improvement as your hair grows and your scalp normalises. You will need to address the real cause (dry hair) not just the symptoms (frizziness / dullness / unmanageability), but you can also treat your hair and scalp more gently to achieve the healthy, vibrant results you want!

Let's first look at addressing the cause....
From the Inside

Essential fatty acids improve the hair texture and prevent dry, brittle hair. EFAs function in metabolic processes and are anti-inflammatory.

Role:
- For fat metabolism
- The formation of the membranes of billions of cells in the body
- Supporting the natural quality and health of one's skin, hair and nails
- Maintaining a healthy blood pressure
- Maintaining healthy and normal brain function
- Regulating moods and the endocrine (hormonal) system

Signs of Deficiency:
- Frequent Migraines/ Excessive thirst
- Stiff, painful joints/ Increased inflammatory response
- Tendency to depression/ Reduced ability to cope with stress
- Wax in ears
- Dull hair
- Dry skin/dermatitis, acne and numerous other skin problems
- Cravings for fatty foods such as fries, potato chips, cheese, pizza, toasted sandwiches, donuts, cream and dare I say, chocolate? :) 

For more health information you can read an excerpt from Mary-Ann Shearer's book 'Perfect Heath' here.

Food sources:
AIMega Essential fatty acid supplement
- Avocado
- Dark green, leafy vegetables
- Deep water fish
       (For example: salmon, mackerel, sardines and tuna)
- Seed oils, Fish oils and Nuts etc.
       (For example: flaxseed oil, linseed oil, primrose oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, soya oil, hemp oil, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, linseeds and walnuts)
- Supplements! (Especially with the correct ratio of Omega fatty acids)

Tip: In a typical Western diet we consume a greater amount of Omega-6 fatty acid than Omega-3 fatty acid therefore I have highlighted the sources of EFAs which are rich in Omega-3s

Before I move on I also want to add some simple wisdom in looking after yourself. We all get busy and stressed but try to be moderate with the caffeinated drinks, sugary/carbonated drinks and alcohol, and remember to stay hydrated with pure, filtered water and [sports] drinks with electrolytes, to help support your body's natural metabolism and hydration.

And now...
From the Outside

Naturalmente
Fennel and Geranium
Deep Hydrating
Treatment (Conditioner)
Essential oil treatments and hair care products can play a supportive role in achieving lush, healthy hair. The pure natural essences from vegetal extracts, roots, wood and other natural sources can provide a natural means of healing, supporting and maintaining the health of your scalp and hair.

The products of Naturalmente are based on such essences and so will provide these extraordinary treatment benefits from shampooing and conditioning through to styling and finishing.

Recommended Hair Care:

For a dry scalp or dry hair I would recommend the Fennel and Geranium shampoo. Curly, frizzy, dry hair will benefit from the corresponding conditioner too. During drying and styling, Naturalmente's Tonic Spray provides gentle leave-in conditioning for frizz-free curls and Macassar serum will help smooth and seal dry hair and split ends whilst treating your hair, as well as your senses, to pure aromatherapy bliss :)

Naturalmente
Macassar
restructuring fluid

If you enjoyed this blog post, you may also be interested to read:


Healthy Hair From The Inside Out

Naturalmente - Shampoos & Conditioner/Treatments

Treat Your Tresses

Aromatherapy: Essential Oils for treating Hair and Scalp
Posted by Katrein at 2:06 PM No comments:
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Labels: chemically-treated hair, conditioner, curly hair, damaged hair, frizzy hair, haircare, healthy hair, oil treatment, scalp, shampoo, wavy hair

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

How to Reduce Exposure to Toxic Chemicals

The following article is from http://cincovidas.com/toxic-hair-dyes-how-to-reduce-your-toxic-exposure-at-home-and-at-your-salon/

Toxic Hair Dyes: How to Reduce Your Toxic Exposure at Home and at Your Salon

By Britta Aragon

A lot of people have been asking me about hair care lately, particularly about toxic hair dyes. What’s safe and what’s not? Why should we be concerned? What sort of salons are likely to be more health conscious?

Why Should We Be Concerned About Chemicals in Hair Dyes?
It comes down to accumulated toxic exposure. As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, hair dyes contain quaternium-15, which can release formaldehyde; phenylenediamine (PPD), which may be carcinogenic; and alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEs), potential hormone disruptors. Though studies remain inconclusive overall, many have indicated that some ingredients in hair dyes can cause cancer, particularly for those who are exposed a lot, like hair dressers and stylists.
We also need to be cautious of what we apply to the scalp because it can absorb potentially harmful chemicals and transmit them into the bloodstream. A study published in the American Journal of Epidemiology, for example, states, “Several studies suggest that toxic chemicals in hair products may be absorbed through the scalp in sufficient amounts to increase the risks of adverse health affects in women….”
http://myconfidential.blogspot.com/
What’s Safe and What’s Not?
If you talk to a hair stylist about the safest method of hair coloring, most likely he or she would tell you to avoid coloring altogether. To change the color of your hair requires a chemical reaction, so it’s difficult to completely avoid any chemical exposure. There are some more natural brands of hair coloring out there, but the actual chemical difference is slight—perhaps one molecule removed from full-blown ammonia, for example. So all in all, there’s just not a 100% safe hair color out there.

The other issue is that many natural hair dyes have not received the best reviews as far as color matching and consistent results. They may have fewer harmful ingredients, but you may not be as happy with the results. This is where you must make a decision—how much risk are you comfortable taking? If you’re healthy with no auto-immune diseases or chemical sensitivities, you may feel okay about using a regular brand once in awhile. If you’re going through cancer, or if you have sensitive skin, allergies, or chemical sensitivities, you may feel differently.
Some brands may have fewer potentially harmful ingredients than others, however, and may help lower your exposure. The FDA does not regulate hair dye ingredients, so watch labels for things like ammonia, peroxide, PPDs, coal tar (though most dyes don’t contain this anymore), toluene and resorcinol. Some natural dyes to try include Aubrey Organics, pure Henna (though realize you can’t change the color on this one if you don’t like it), and NaturaTint.

Finding a Safe Salon
Once you decide how you want to approach your hair care, the next step is to find a stylist who will work with you. Some have absolutely no experience with less toxic dyes, and others are well educated about them. Tell your stylist you’re concerned about chemicals and that you prefer hair dyes that are ammonia-free, herbal-based, low-PPD, lead-free, toluene-free and coal-tar-free. Discuss how you can reduce the number of times you have to get a complete color, such as choosing highlights or lowlights in between appointments, or going with something that’s closer to your natural shade or a lighter shade (as dark hair dyes are the most toxic) and perhaps consider embracing your gray hair.
As for some specific salons that cater to chemical-conscious customers, try Aveda salons (their dyes are more natural but do still contain ammonia). Planet Thrive has some other great less toxic hair salon suggestions for different states around the nation.

Do you have some tips for cutting back on hair chemicals? Please share.

Sources
Cheryl Blackmore-Prince, et al., “Chemical Hair Treatments and Adverse Pregnancy Outcome Among Black Women in Central North Carolina,” American Journal of Epidemiology Vol 149(8): 712-716 (1999). http://aje.oxfordjournals.org/content/149/8/712.full.pdf
If you found this informative, you may also be interested in the following blog posts:

Permanent Hair Dye - ingredients
Hair Dye Allergy, Henna & Pregnancy
Organic Hair Colour - Does it Exist?
The Cosmetic use of Silicones for Hair
How to find a good shampoo
Posted by Katrein at 10:21 AM No comments:
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Labels: chemically-treated hair, colour-treated hair
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This blog is not meant as a means of profit but rather to inform the public about issues regarding hair and health and spark new ideas and thoughts that will be beneficial to the reader.

It is not meant to substitute professional consultation with a personal hairstylist or health professional but rather to help you make informed choices from a consumer perspective.

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